1948 GMC - Truck Frame


Main Garage Car Shows Finished Photos Before & After Progressive Photos Existing Truck Shop & Tools Running Boards Truck Bed License Plate Rear Shocks Rear Brakes Electrical Wiring Gas Tank Bench Seat Glove Box Radio Dash Heater Gauges & Switches Windshield Wipers Cab Vents Grill Radiator Hood Headlights Front Fenders Doors Cab Steering Wheel Transmission Forward Controls Engine Fuel Pump Drive Shaft Exhaust Starter Carburetor Brake Lines Front End Front Brakes Rear End Suspension Frame Cab Interior Wheels Oil Lines Rear Fender Page 01 Page 02 Rear Bumper Estimated Cost & Parts List DuPont Paints Helpful Links joey@joeysgarage.com		In order to locate the rear fender where I wanted it and to mark the location of the holes to be drilled through the bed side, I used some blocking on the tire and a small adjustable stool to hold it in place.
		With the front of the fender flush with the bottom of the running board, I clamped the front of the fender in place with some vice grips.
		After stepping back and taking a good look, along with comparing pictures of the original truck, the back side of the fender was temporally clamped into place.
		After marking the location of the new holes through the mounting holes in the new fender, the fender was removed and holes were drilled.
		Starting out first with a small pilot hole, I moved up to the desired hole size needed. Lesson Learned: On the front side of the fender, the second hole up, I was luck because the hole came right through the center of the side bed strip where it was suppose to. But for the back hole, it was about an inch high. When placing the fender, and marking the wholes, I had completely overlooked where the holes would of come though on the inside of the bed in junction with the side strip. With the wholes already drilled, there was nothing I could do except make sure the other side matched.
		Another lesson learned with the mounding of the rear fenders is with these carriage bolts: I thought if I drilled the right size hole, the square part of the carriage bolt would make it's own place through the sheet metal when the nut was tightened. This was not the case. With the first one I tried, the carriage bolt spun as it went in and widened the hole, in turn, spinning and never locking in correctly. This being a lesson learned and not attempted twice.
		With the second hole, I filed it square to fit the carriage bolt. Not big enough that the carriage bolt would easily slip into place but enough that it would have a home and not spin as it when it.

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