1948 GMC – Truck Bed


Main Garage Car Shows Finished Photos Before & After Progressive Photos Existing Truck Shop & Tools Running Boards Truck Bed Page 01 Page 02 Page 03 Page 04 Page 05 Page 06 Page 07 Page 08 Page 09 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 License Plate Rear Shocks Rear Brakes Electrical Wiring Gas Tank Bench Seat Glove Box Radio Dash Heater Gauges & Switches Windshield Wipers Cab Vents Grill Radiator Hood Headlights Front Fenders Doors Cab Steering Wheel Transmission Forward Controls Engine Fuel Pump Drive Shaft Exhaust Starter Carburetor Brake Lines Front End Front Brakes Rear End Suspension Frame Cab Interior Wheels Oil Lines Rear Fender Rear Bumper Estimated Cost & Parts List DuPont Paints Helpful Links joey@joeysgarage.com		After sanding away some of the primer that was shot on just a few days ago and cleaning up the cut edges a bit, the old hole was clamped into the new whole.
		Close up on the clamed in old hole.
		After making a few spot welds, the clamps were removed and alignment was checked to make sure the metals were flush on top.
		For those that have not read any posting before this on stitch welding, let me share with you the importance of taking your time. Not that you will weld in the wrong place but that you can get your metal hot and deform it in a heart beat. After a few more spot welds, wait and let it cool or spay it with compressed air before moving on to a few more spot welds. If possible, always have your bumping tools ready to straighten the metal back out.
		After the welds were done, they were grinded and sanded away.
		To the back side, a bit of sanding, filler, some more sanding and ready to prime.

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