Main Garage


Car Shows


Finished Photos

Before & After


Progressive Photos

Existing Truck
Shop & Tools
Running Boards
Truck Bed
License Plate
Rear Shocks
Rear Brakes
Electrical Wiring
Gas Tank
Bench Seat
Glove Box

Radio
Dash
Heater
Gauges & Switches
Windshield Wipers
Cab Vents
Grill
Radiator
Hood
Headlights
Front Fenders
Doors

 

Cab

     Page 01

     Page 02

     Page 03

     Page 04

     Page 05

     Page 06

     Page 07

     Page 08

     Page 09

     Page 10

     Page 11

     Page 12

     Page 13

     Page 14

     Page 15

     Page 16

     Page 17

     Page 18

     Page 19

     Page 20

     Page 21

     Page 22

     Page 23

     Page 24

     Page 25

     Page 26

     Page 27

     Page 28

     Page 29

     Page 30

     Page 31

     Page 32

     Page 33

     Page 34

     Page 35

     Page 36

     Page 37

     Page 38

     Page 39

     Page 40

     Page 41

     Page 42

     Page 43

     Page 44

     Page 45

     Page 46

     Page 47

     Page 48

 

Steering Wheel

Transmission

Forward Controls

Engine

Fuel Pump

Drive Shaft

Exhaust

Starter

Carburetor

Brake Lines

Front End

Front Brakes

Rear End

Suspension

Frame

Cab Interior

Wheels

Oil Lines

Rear Fender

Rear Bumper

 

Estimated Cost & Parts List

 

DuPont Paints

 

Helpful Links

 

joey@joeysgarage.com

 

 

Here is the back side of the cab after priming.  I still need to address the pit holes on the bottom side of the top half of the cab.

Before blasting I grabbed a pick and jabbed at each rust spot in this area.  All the spots that I could punch through I drilled out.  Followed by a good blasting focusing not just on the holes but what was behind and inside the hole.

Now for these holes, I am planning on welding them closed and then sanding them flush.  But before that, with a rattle can of rust converter/inhibiter, I will be treating the metal that I can not get to.  Like the area behind these holes along with other areas in the cab.

In order to get in these tight areas I am planning on switching out the spray nozzle on the rust converter with that of one from a can of carburetor cleaner.  This way I can utilize the small tub that you insert in the spray nozzle that came with the can of carburetor cleaner.  By doing so, I should be able to insert the tub into the holes and tight spots.  Of course this will leave runs.  Runs that I will have to clean up, but at least I know I have given it my best shot for those areas that otherwise would of been left untouched....  I will let you know how it works out.

A few days later:  As it turns out, it worked pretty good.  I was able to get into the areas needed.  The issues I ran into was first, with the rust converter coming out the tub, it was a stream.  To fix that, I flattened the end of the tub and spread the spray out.  Second was where the converter ran out on the primer, it soften the primer and had to be cleaned up and re-primed.  The last part was only due to me not wearing gloves...  Boy is that rust converter hard to get off your hands.

Now while the rust converter is curing and doing it's thing, I moved on to the front part of the seat support frame.

With having a small metal brake, I am limited on the size and thickness I can bend.  With 18 gauge metal, I am pushing it at 12 inches.

So with four pieces of metal cut and bent to size, they were clamed down to the work table.

Here is a back shot of the new work.

With a sheet of aluminum on the work bench, I clamped down a piece of flat stock and used it to align the new pieces.

After welding the new pieces together followed by grinding and sanding; the new was clamped to the old.  With the cutoff wheel, cut through both pieces, new and old.  From there, the parts were welded, grinded and sanded.

After the floorboards are finished, it will be welded back into the truck and ready for a small about of glazing putty and primer.

Back to the cab.

As earlier stated, there is issues of rust on the back side, bottom part of the top half of the cab.  This would be rust.

In order to fix this, the only logical solution I could come up with is to do filler welds.

Here is a shot of the first round.

Again with the second round.

Keeping in mind that this is a very rusty area (now blasted) the metal is very thin.  With every touch of the welder, the wholes got bigger and bigger until there was enough weld to absorb the heat.

After every few rounds of welds, I grabbed the grinder to smooth down the work.  This way I could keep an eye on welding the whole closed verses welding on a  bump that when ground down would still leave a whole.

Now I won't lie to you and say everything went according to plan because it didn't.

With the more I sanded away on the welds, the more I thinned the existing metal and the more welds I had to do.

"If you have or had the same issue with your truck in this area, let me know how you address the problem.  I would like to know how it could of been fixed that was better than what I did."

Joey                     

Previous Page    -    Next Page